Thursday, July 28, 2011

Eyeliner Lineup

I get a ton of questions about eyeliner application, so that will be the topic of today's blog.  You gotta give the people what they want, right?

There really isn't one correct way to apply eyeliner.  It sort of all depends on the look you're going for.  I personally don't prefer a harsh line like the one you get from a gel or liquid liner, but that technique does work for certain looks.  After lots of tests, I've found that a self-sharpening pencil liner with a smudger on the end works best.  Below is my how-to for everyday liner.  We will chat at a later date about special circumstances like extreme cat-eyes, crazy dark liner, etc.

For the lid:
I know it's against conventional practices, but I always apply liner before shadow.  I like the soft, smoky look this technique produces.  Obvi, start with your Urban Decay primer.  Then, draw a thick line with your liner pencil as close to the lash line as possible.  Don't be scured to make a pretty thick line, and don't worry if it's jagged or uneven.  I like to sweep up the ends in the slightest cat-eye for an instant "I'm awake" look.  I mean who couldn't use a little faux eyelift?  Now here comes the important part: use the smudger end of the pencil to go over the line you made.  This will even out the jagged parts and also keep the line from looking too harsh.  Next, apply your shadow (don't worry; we'll discuss this in detail in a later post).  If the line is too faint after the shadow is applied, feel free to go over it with the pencil again to darken it up.

For the bottom lash line:
This is where I really like to keep it soft.  In fact, I don't even use an eyeliner pencil at all on the lower line.  Use a liner brush (see previous post on brushes) and coat with the crease (darkest) color that you used for your eyeshadow.  If you didn't use a crease color, find a relatively dark shadow in the same tonal family as the color on your lids and dip your brush in that --- maybe a bronze, gray, or stone color.  Sweep the brush onto your lower lash line, keeping it pretty thick and smudge-y.  The key here is to give the look of shadow instead of a harsh line.  You can make it as dark or keep it as light as it suits you.

For an extra fancy pop:
Wipe your liner brush clean, and coat it with a bright, high-shine eyeshadow.  I love using either an iridescent gold or silver.  Brush this color onto the inner lash line - the wet (I know.  Gross word.) part of your skin that is actually above your lower lashes.  You might have to tug skin under your eye down a bit to make this part accessible.  This trick will immediately make your eyes seem bigger and brighter.

I know it looks gross, but this is the 'wet' part I'm talking about.

Notes:
- Stay away from brown.  By "brown," I mean straight-up-Clinique-counter BROWN.  True brown isn't flattering on anyone, anytime.  I'm not talking about in clothing or hair color; I'm talking specifically about brown eyeliner.  Don't do it.
- Make sure you choose a liner color that complements the shadows you are using.

Fave product:
Stila Convertible Eye Color (OBSESSED.  I have it in every color.  "Stone" is best because it looks gray when you put it with gray hues and bronze when you put it with bronze hues.)
Click here to buy online

Lemme know if you've got questions!  Have fun!

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